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Halnaker Tree Tunnel, west sussex walk

By Ferne Arfin 22 August 2020

West Sussex walk with a difference

A July walk in the lush West Sussex countryside was a lovely escape – as expected – and a lot more besides.

When I joined West Sussex guide Kathryn Burrington for a walk on the edge of England’s South Downs National Park, near Chichester and the Goodwood Estate, I was anticipating a gentle ramble through fields of grain, past charming flint cottages and, with luck, some long views across the Downs to the English Channel.

It was also going to be a chance to enjoy socially-distanced company and wide-open spaces after nearly five months in lockdown. It was all of that. What I didn’t expect was that I would be crossing country where some of our distant – very, very, very distant – ancestors hunted rhinoceros, hippos, extinct aurochs and Megaloceros giganteus (giant Irish elk). Or that I would be sheltering from the hot August sun in an ancient tree tunnel worthy of Game of Thrones and worn down into the floor of a primaeval forest by the feet of hundreds of generations before me.

More than West Sussex scenery

Besides being a walking guide, Kat is a professional travel writer and photographer. She’s also a West Sussex native and it

Kat Burrington , west sussex walk

Walking guide, travel writer and photographer Kathryn Burrington heading out for a West Sussex Walk.

shows in her passion for the area and the research she has put into her three to five-mile walks.

I joined her for her Halnaker Tree Tunnel and Windmill Walk, one of two experiences she offers through AirBnB. The four-mile (optionally three-mile) circular walk starts and ends at a pub in Halnaker, a village on the northern edge of the historic city of Chichester. After passing through the vineyards of the Tinwood Estate and crossing golden fields of ripening barley, it enters a quiet lane that’s actually an ancient Roman road. There we were enveloped by a magical tree tunnel or “hollow way” (a bit of insider knowledge shared by our guide ) and passed a picturesque flint cottage or two before gently climbing onto the downs to a restored windmill.

Walking with ancients

Along the way, we learned that the oldest human remains ever discovered in Britain, the bones of our extinct predecessor, homo heidelbergensis, stalked fierce, giant mammals here 500,000 years ago. His six-foot-tall remains were discovered nearby in the mid-1990s  – along with hundreds of finely worked hand axes as well as the remains of his prey.

The tree-tunnel, it turns out, is a combined natural and man-made phenomenon. The Romans built their roads on deep foundations of chalk and stone. Over time, the footsteps of tens of thousands of humans, along with their carts and animals, wore the road deeper and deeper into the chalk. Meanwhile, the trees growing on either side held the banks and eventually formed an arch over the path – the hollow way.

It’s this kind of informed local knowledge – including some naturalist tidbits about geology, birds, small mammals and plants – that makes the walk a good deal more than a simple country hike. And, of course, it wouldn’t be an English woodland walk without some folklore about local magic and the witches, fairies and spirits who inhabit these ancient places.

Please click arrows, lower right corner of images below for caption information

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west sussex walk, Flint Cottage, Mill laneOpen image in lightbox: A much photographed flint cottage just outside the tree tunnel Open image in lightbox: A much photographed flint cottage just outside the tree tunnel
west sussex walk, Halnaker Windmill, Restored Windmill in the South Downs National ParkOpen image in lightbox: Open image in lightbox:
west sussex walkOpen image in lightbox: August barley Open image in lightbox: August barley
flint path, west sussex walkOpen image in lightbox: Where thick-soled walking shoes because, though the walk is gentle, some of the paths are paved with the rough broken stones known as flint. It can be tough to walk on. Open image in lightbox: Where thick-soled walking shoes because, though the walk is gentle, some of the paths are paved with the rough broken stones known as flint. It can be tough to walk on.

The nitty-gritty of this West Sussex walk

  • Kathryn offers the Halnaker Windmill Walk and another, the Sussex Village Walk, throughout the year with schedules, more details and a booking form listed here on the Airbnb website.
  • The walks take approximately 2.5 hours but – with prior arrangement –  can be adapted to suit the participants’ requirements.
  • Both walks start and finish at a pub where you can have a coffee and a chat before you get going and stop for a meal after the walk.
  • The walks cost between £11.90 and £16 per person depending upon the walk chosen and the number of participants.
  • Walks can be rescheduled or refunded in case of really bad weather.
  • Check out a preview of what to expect on the Sussex Walks Instagram page.
  • Getting there: The nearest train station is Chichester, an hour and a half from London Victoria. There are local buses and taxi services to the start of each walk and details can be provided when you book. Check National Rail Enquiries for current times and prices. 

…and the bottom line

This is a very pleasant way to spend a relaxing morning or afternoon within about an hour and 40 minutes from London by train. Kathryn is friendly and well informed and her enthusiasm for her own local area is evident and infectious. I highly recommend this walk with two caveats (learned the hard way):

  • Wear sturdy walking shoes with thick soles. Parts of the walk, particularly where it crosses or runs alongside cultivated fields, are paved with flint. If you are not used to it, this material – composed of fist-sized broken stones of crystalline quartz – can be rather hard to walk on. I found my expensive running shoes were not up to the job.
  • Summer weather – which can extend from May through mid-September – can be hot and dry on the South Downs. Wear a hat and bring water. On the other hand, you could just as easily be caught in a downpour – this is England after all – and the walks go ahead rain or shine. So be prepared.

You might also like:

  • A walk in Friston Forest
  • A wildlife walk on the Suffolk Coast
  • London’s Blue Plaques: A Chelsea Walk
  • Wide Open Spaces
  • The path to Halnaker Windmill, a magical tunnel of trees

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West Sussex Walks

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Full Disclosure Statement

I was offered the opportunity to sample this walk free of charge by Kathryn Burrington. Nevertheless, my opinions are always my own and I only recommend attractions or experiences I believe you will enjoy.

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4 replies
  1. Lisa Gerard Sharp
    Lisa Gerard Sharp says:
    25th August 2020 at 8:49 am

    Those Romans have a lot to answer for! A delightful-sounding walk with Kat, such a knowledgeable local guide. Will pass it onto my family, some of whom live locally, and hope to try myself when back in the country/area. Delighted that you are venturing out once more, Ferne.

    Reply
    • Ferne Arfin
      Ferne Arfin says:
      25th August 2020 at 10:27 am

      At the moment, only in a very limited way- social distanced outdoors and with masks indoors.
      Do recommend this walk to your friends and relations though. It is an enjoyable way to spend a few hours, bracketed by a pub at either end.

      Reply

Trackbacks & Pingbacks

  1. In and around Dunkerque: Gravelines says:
    13th August 2022 at 7:36 pm

    […] A West Sussex walk with a difference […]

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    16th July 2021 at 12:22 am

    […] A different West Sussex walk […]

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